A little more than two years following a devastating fire that destroyed its original location, Plate has emerged bigger and perhaps grander than ever with a sleek new space at East 63rd and Holmes Street. The new 200-seat restaurant is now open for business under its original owner, Christian Joseph, as well as its original executive chef, Brian Mehl.

The new Plate may seat 200 diners (about three times as many as the old location), but it manages to avoid feeling overly large. Floor-to-ceiling windows run along the north side of the space, lined by luxe, oversized white booths. In the center of the room is a large U-shaped black marble bar, and just beyond it, a large window into the kitchen. With concrete floors, glossy tables and an overall white/black/gray color scheme, the restaurant feels modern, but still manages to be inviting. A wraparound outdoor patio is currently under construction, and may open as soon as this summer.

Mehl’s Italian-minded menu will feel familiar to former customers of Plate, though it has been reimagined for this new room. The antipasti, salads and pastas are designed with sharing in mind. Guests can opt, for example, for a dish of grilled sardines, topped with bread crumbs, Cypress lemon sea salt and charred tangerines; or a serving of creamy, fresh burrata, topped with beet green pesto, Grappa figs, spiced honey and pan-seared hazelnuts, served with housemade crostini. The house cheese and charcuterie board currently includes elk sausage, a spicy salami, buttery Brie and tea-dusted Cheddar, along with housemade mustard, a fig spread and pickled peppers. Among the salad options is a dish of baby beets, watercress and red sorrel topped with rhubarb vinaigrette, beet syrup, gorgonzola, along with compressed tangerines and crunchy walnut brittle.

Mehl’s pastas display his creativity and willingness to combine unusual flavors to great effect. His nori (seaweed)-pressed spaghetti dish incorporates salted, cured roe (bottarga) along with fermented snap peas and saffron oil. Cappellaci, which look almost like wontons, are stuffed with rich braised rabbit, oyster mushrooms and carrot-top pesto, and served in a rich bone marrow broth with generous shavings of black truffle. Perhaps more conventional – though just as luscious – is an oregano-infused pappardelle served with a slow-cooked pork shoulder ragout, topped with a heap of grated Parmesan.

The entrée options are similarly playful and inventive, and lean heavily on seasonal ingredients. A generous filet of beef is served with Chianti-drenched, fried polenta, arugula and melted leeks, then drizzled with porcini-sage oil. On the lighter side, grilled striped bass is topped with a pistachio romesco and served with fresh white asparagus, beet ciciones (little gnocchi) and watercress. Customers can also opt for espresso-rubbed duck breast, farro served with seared sumac cauliflower, or Colorado lamb chops with sage gnocchi, among other items.

To drink, Plate offers a small but tasteful list of seasonal cocktails and beer, as well as an extensive wine list featuring selections from Italy, France and the West Coast.

Plate is located on the ground floor of a multi-use development at 701 East 63rd Street, and customers may use its adjoining parking garage or take advantage of complimentary valet parking from the entrance on 63rd Street. The entrance to the restaurant is located just inside the complex’s main doors.

Plate is open for dinner Monday through Thursday from 4 to 10pm, and for lunch and dinner Friday through Sunday from 11am to 11pm. Happy hour takes place every day from 4 to 6pm.

Plate, 701 E. 63rd St., Suite 100, Brookside, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.775.0098, platekc.com

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April is a Kansas Citian by way of New Mexico, worker bee, freelance writer and photographer, food, music, animal and travel lover.

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