SHIFT Kolache

The mushroom-potato kolache from SHIFT.

SHIFT, Logan Ely's acclaimed restaurant in Fox Park, is certainly living up to its name.

The restaurant, formerly known as Savage, officially changed its name in late June, citing the "troubled history" of the word. And as more restaurants close their dining rooms and adopt a carryout-only model during the pandemic, SHIFT has also shifted away from its elegant tasting menu in favor of some more casual offerings.

Now, you'll find more a more approachable menu including sandwiches, burgers and sausages, alongside sides, bottled cocktails and wine by the bottle available for curbside pickup. The French Onion Melt, with sliced pork shoulder, yeast fondue, caramelized onions and crispy FunYuns, is a tribute to the restaurant's signature onion dish, while the pork steak sandwich is a play on one of St. Louis' most iconic dishes, featuring pork steak schnitzel, salted lemon-caper barbecue sauce and "a shit ton of cheese" on potato bread.

Our favorite dish, however, just might be the vegetarian kolache. Housemade dough is stuffed with a smoked mushroom-potato filling and topped with a bright and punchy cabbage and herb salad for a vegetarian entree that's certainly no afterthought. Pair it with SHIFT's batched watermelon sour and you've got all the makings for a perfect summer picnic.

SHIFT's takeout menu is available for curbside pickup Thursday through Saturday from 11am to 8pm.

SHIFT, 2655 Ann Ave., Fox Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.354.8488,