Salt’s stately presence on Lindell Boulevard has been a beacon for food enthusiasts since the restaurant opened its doors in mid-2011. In April of this year, Josh Roland assumed full control of the kitchen, and he’s deftly balanced the cuisine Salt is known for with an approach that’s all his own. Try Roland’s charcuterie, the Salt Smokies in particular. These are his ode to the cocktail weenie, all grown up and much too good to be simmered in a Crock-Pot. The casing has a nice snap and the finely textured filling an excellent fat-to-meat ratio.
Gnocchi is light as air, made with ricotta and a bit of lemon. Roland’s seared trout is served with a potato-leek hash and a poached egg, the golden yolk mingling with rhubarb-vanilla vinaigrette. Pork cheek is a menu favorite, braised in soy sauce and plated with an arugula salad and grilled peach. Even a classic dessert has a touch of the unexpected. The ice cream terrine is dressed up with a drizzle of smoked-chocolate syrup. Sweet.
Salt, 4356 Lindell Blvd., 314.932.5787, Central West End, enjoysalt.com