When Bryan and Diane Carr assumed ownership of Atlas, the restaurant's devoted regulars waited anxiously to see what would become of this neighborhood bistro. The Carrs, of course, have run Pomme Restaurant and Pomme Café and Wine Bar in Clayton for years, so it is no surprise that the transition has been graceful.

Bryan Carr's elegant approach to cooking is a comfortable fit for Atlas' established, simple, exacting approach to French and Italian dishes. The house-made country terrine is plated with twists of pickled veggies and the tender trout is given a flourish of tangy preserved-lemon sauce. Savory lamb chops are heightened by rosemary and a traditional ratatouille. And for dessert, order Tibka's chocolate cake with apricot preserves and caramel.

5513 Pershing Ave., DeMun, 314.367.6800, atlasrestaurantstl.com

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