Here in St. Louis, fish doesn’t get much fresher than it does at Vin de Set’s new Fresh Fish Market, held each Thursday on the restaurant’s rooftop patio. In partnership with Bob’s Seafood, chef Ivy Magruder has seafood – oysters, prawns and at least five types of whole fish – transported to his kitchen straight from the airport.

On a recent night, Atlantic black bass, Atlantic flounder, Pacific striped bass, red snapper from the Gulf of Mexico, Mediterranean dorade and Atlantic soft-shell crabs were all available, on ice, waiting for you to point to the one you wanted. At this point the fish, still whole, is grilled in front of you, topped with the sauce of your choice and served simply with rice and green beans. The seafood is priced by the pound, and some species are large enough to serve two or three people, in which case the fish is placed in the center of the table to be enjoyed family-style.

The rest of Vin de Set’s Frenchified menu is also available (we say get the housemade charcuterie – the duck prosciutto with watercress and honey is fantastic). If you’ve never eaten a whole fish off the bone, head to the Fresh Fish Market. You’ll experience just how tender and succulent seafood can be.

Vin de Set, 2017 Chouteau Ave., Lafayette Square, 314.241.8989,

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