Editor's Note: With our May issue devoted to local wines, Angela Ortmann is dedicating this month's Quite The Pair columns to St. Louis-area restaurants that serve them.
Farmhaus' Escolar, $21
With spring in full swing, we are beginning to see more and more dishes that focus on fresh herbs and produce. Seafood is a natural fit for an anchor to these flavors with its ability to absorb and adapt to the multitude of tastes.
Farmhaus' escolar dish is no exception. The rich, buttery fish is poached in local Traminette white wine with dill. Large prawns and grilled local asparagus finish the plate.
THE DRINK PAIRINGS
Chaumette Traminette, Ste. Genevieve, Mo., $8 by the glass
One of our first and most prominent rules in food and wine pairing is to cook with the same wine that you drink. The escolar has been poached in this light, fruity and delicately sweet local white. A cross hybrid grape of Gewürztraminer, Traminette shows many similar qualities to familiar German varietals. The combination of bright fruit and accents of floral and spice make this crisp white wine approachable and delicious. This pairing was exceptionally exciting for its combination of both local produce and local wine.
Parlay "Feast" Rosé, Carneros, Calif., $8 by the glass
As a food and wine professional, I am constantly working to try to break the mold and change the perception and belief that only white wines are to be paired with seafood. Understandably so, diners are just plain comfortable with this idea. However, when dealing with more dense, meatier fish, one can't help but crave a wine that has a little more to it. For those not ready to jump right into reds, why not try a rosé? Often described as a white wine for the red wine drinker, this dry style has soft fruit with subtle herbal tones. It not only stands up to the escolar in body but also highlights the lovely dill seasoning and brings out the layered flavors of the dish.
Perennial Farmhouse Ale, St. Louis, $14 by the bottle (750 ml)
Switching gears from wines to beer, I began tasting this local brew by our server's suggestion. This Belgian-style saison is brewed with chamomile flowers, a fun addition to the fish with an herb base. Full flavored and fruity without too much hoppiness, the Farmhouse ale became a nice, refreshing complement to the lush seafood and butter sauce. Keep an eye out for this beer style as it makes for a wonderful and versatile pairing beverage for an array of spring and summer meals.
Farmhaus, 3527 Ivanhoe, Lindenwood, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com
STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann gained a passion for all things epicurean by working in the luxury restaurants and hotels of St. Louis and San Francisco. Through her event and consultation business, she is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.