An evening menu of tapas at One 19 North Tapas & Wine Bar gives way to a flight of sandwiches and wraps for lunch at this small eatery tucked away amongst the storefronts lining North Kirkwood Road. Locals on the lookout for a leisurely business meal may have missed One 19 North as a lunch option, which is a shame because they are serving up one of the better burgers in Kirkwood right now.
The burger starts with ample 8-ounce patty, well seasoned with salt and pepper and grilled to order. It is the kind of backyard burger you'd make at home and serve to friends: simple, reasonably sized and packed with grill flavor. Toppings and adornments are thankfully kept to a minimum as well; American cheese, lettuce, tomato and onion keep the focus on the prime beef patty. The only addition I suggest is the housemade tomato compote that is smoky and rich with Spanish spice, linking the burger to the tapas lineage of the restaurant.
The menu lists the bun as ciabatta, but on both occasions I've tried the burger it has been served on bun more reminiscent to a lightly toasted brioche that compresses when gripping the sandwich to eat and slowly disintegrating as it absorbs juice from the burger.
Make for the side of housemade chips for your burger, along with some malt vinegar. The chips are cut thickly and fried crisp, so they stand up well to the tang and welcome acidity of vinegar between bites of salty potato.
Kirkwood: Your new lunch burger is served.
One 19 North Tapas & Wine Bar, 119 North Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.821.4119, one19north.com