One of the best things about this column is it allows me the opportunity to continue a search that I’ve been on for some time: to find each and every great hamburger in St. Louis and get people to go out and eat them. I’ve amassed a Rolodex of favorite burgers over the years - one for almost every style and at any price point - and it’s long past time that I add the hamburger from Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine in Ellisville to that list.

This burger speaks to me for many reasons. First and foremost is that right now, here in late August , it unabashedly sports some of the finest flavors of the season: tender greens, quick pickled cucumber and onion and a slice of hearty, thick-cut tomato. A patty of local grass-fed and finished beef is lightly packed, salted well, and oh-so-juicy. The burger itself perches atop a slathering of garlicky aioli, which makes for a fine sauce as the burger tosses off juice and it mixes with homemade mayo.

Some might think the kicker to this burger is the layer of pimento cheese that it sports, but it is actually the bun, a sweet, tender brioche from La Bonne Bouchée in Creve Coeur that is toasted before patty and toppings are loaded between its halves. Sure, the last time I tackled this burger the bun did its best to keep things together before ultimately giving up - laying there on my plate - and begging to be finished with a knife and fork. Veritas should feel no shame because of the act, as I’m not sure there is a bun in town that could stand up to the hamburger onslaught you’ve unleashed on West County.

Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 15860 Fountain Plaza, Ellisville, 636.277.6800,

Tired of reheating last night's dinner for lunch? Every Monday, food writer Andrew Mark Veety guides you to some of the best midday meals in the St. Louis region, with great places to bring clients or enjoy an outing with your co-workers. Missed one of his columns? Check them out here.

Catch Andrew on the air every Tuesday at 1:25pm on the Big 550 KTRS' Martin Kilcoyne Show, where he continues the conversation on his weekly lunch picks.


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